Okcheonsa

Today was absolutely gorgeous weather, and Kim suggested we go see Okcheonsa temple on our lunch break. It's about 10 minutes' drive away, and it was spectacular. It was an awesome, quiet break from the noise of screaming children and slamming doors. Nestled down into a beautiful valley, when you look up at the skyline, you see that you are surrounded by mountain peaks, giving the illusion that you are inside a blooming lotus flower, and giving the temple its name (Lotus temple). Built in 672, this temple is one of the oldest in Korea, though it has been destroyed by the Japanese twice (the buildings I saw were rebuilt  in 1961). There is a water well on the grounds called "the living waters," the fountain dating back to the 200's (in existence before the first foundation of the temple was built!). I drank from it- it tasted delicious! A monk took us on a tour of the grounds for about two hours.

the beautiful grounds- so peaceful and still

learning quarters- en plein air year round

the shrine

a ginormous drum!

fish are a popular protective omen for buddhist temples- they sleep with their eyes open. a dragon fish is a fearsome protector.

Kim is keen to return soon- when the flowers are blooming- stay tuned!

Things I'd Like to Consume Today But Can't

I've created my "coming home tour rider," ie, dreaming about food. Again.

Breakfast:
1. Freshly baked "everything" bagels with veggie cream cheese
2. My mom's (Christmas special) almond coffee cake with homemade icing. If she won't do this, an Entenman's cheese danish will suffice.
3. Cranberry mimosas, a lot of them. Fresh strawberries as a garnish.
4. A pot of freshly brewed drip coffee, with real cream


Lunch:
1-6. Barbeque fare- grilled corn on the cob, grilled asparagus with fresh ground pepper, steamed clams with lime, potato salad, grilled lamb chops, Italian sausages.
7. Non-skunky Corona, with plenty of limes.

8-9. Pulled pork sandwiches on soft white Kaiser rolls, sweet potato fries.
10-11. A homemade turkey sandwich on thick white bread with Swiss cheese and all the fixins, served with a heaping portion of Ruffles. 
12. A beef souvlaki from Pano's, medium rare, extra feta, extra pepperoncinis, extra tomatoes and cucumbers. Extra tzeiki.

Dinner:
1. Monster Roll- broccoli, fresh mozzarella, sharp cheddar, asparagus, onions, peppers, and spicy Italian sausage, all baked into a huge loaf of bread.
2. My mom's famed Corned beef & cabbage dinner, with steamed potatoes and carrots
3. Southerntier Pumpking, flowing.
4. An extra-large 1/2 cheese 1/2 cheese & pepp pizza from Casa Di Pizza, 20 hot barbeque wings, and a mountain of bleu cheese on the side.
5. Any amazingly delicious entree from SeaBar.

Dessert:
1. Rootbeer floats
2. Soft, still-warm chocolate chip cookies.
3. The bananas foster dessert, served in a chalice with steaming, homemade caramel, from Shango.

Six more months!
....maybe

A Wedding...

After Saturday night's dance party I was pretty spent and generally not thrilled about it, but yesterday I somehow peeled my hungover butt out of bed and went to the wedding of my Vice Principal's daughter. It was located only about five minutes' windy walk from my apartment, which was nice.

When I arrived at the wedding mega-plex, I didn't really know where to go or what to do. There were seven floors of weddings in the building, and I had no way of knowing which one my VP's daughter would be on (I don't even know HIS name... much less hers...). Luckily, two teachers from my school showed up around the same time, and said something to the tune of, "Oh, Mandi! ....You were invited?"

We walked up four flights of stairs (me, sweating gin and cursing under my breath) and finally arrived to a room full of bored looking people standing around. We said hello to the VP, and paid our greetings to his daughter, who was absolutely a beautiful princess in a gigantic fluffy white dress, stuffed in a tiny closet-like thing while she waited to get married. She was crying.... not tears of joy. [This is the only time the bride's guests greet her- she will not see them during or after the ceremony. Same with the groom, who is standing at the entrance to the 'chapel.' After the ceremony is over, they go into a smaller, more private chapter and do the traditional Korean hanbok ceremony, with only family present. She will only wear the wedding dress for about two hours, the hanbok for even less- maybe one hour. Both outfits easily cost over $1,000. Then they leave. There is no greeting the newly married couple at the doors or throwing rice at the couple while they run to the car, no reception, nada.]

After standing around for about 20 minutes, the bride went into the "wedding room," which is basically a horribly tacky neon-lit/fake flower covered chapel-ala-Vegas room. Not kidding, they had a bubble machine, it was awesome. We watched as (presumably) a friend of the bride and groom serenaded them from apx. 3 feet away (it was kind of uncomfortable to watch), other people inside the "chapel" milled around, talked on cellphones, and generally didn't pay attention. (I've only been to one other Korean wedding, but it was the same business, and I felt the same.... completely awkward and out of place.) Maybe five minutes later, the other teachers grabbed my arm and said, "Mandi, it's time for lunch."

What!! Wtf? Lunch?! The ceremony wasn't even over yet! But off we went, through a door on the other side of the room, to stuff ourselves full of free buffet. All in all, from arrival time to the time I left, I spent 58 minutes at the wedding. This blows my mind. In America, you're lucky to spend 58 minutes waiting for the photographer. In Korea, weddings aren't really a big deal. It's pretty much a photo-op for the family. Giving the couple gifts is considered extremely tacky; instead, ALWAYS give money. Not even a card is necessary, simply a white envelope with your name and the amount on it. (The wedding hall even provides envelopes.)

All in all, I think weddings in Korea kind of suck. Though, yes, it is nice that they're so short and always include a huge buffet lunch, they're uncomfortably causal and frankly, boring. I love going to weddings in the states, but the reception is really the best part, isn't it?

Black and Red Weekend

trouble

black and reds

international groovin

Scenes from the benefit/dance party I threw Saturday night for the Vagina Monologues.... we raised over $450!! There were a few slight technical difficulties, but they quickly worked themselves out and no one besides me even notices. It was amazing and too much fun. We all danced our heads off and ended the night shoeless. Success! 

Tax Fail

It's tax season, which is a really confusing time being overseas in a country where no one understands anything about taxes. Trying to communicate with my school's administrative offices is incredibly difficult.

About two months ago, I realized I would need to do something about my taxes while over here. I didn't know WHAT I needed, specifically, to show to US Government to prove my earnings over here, but I knew I needed something. Back in January, I contacted Alistair, my ever-helpful recruiter, and asked him what the deal was. He informed me I needed to get a copy of my "residency certificate," a form I thought I had already applied for- in July 2011.

After a short investigation, Alistair told me that yes, I had already done everything I needed to do, and all we needed now was for the IRS to send a copy of that residency certificate to Korea, me to give it to my school's administration staff, and them to file it with the office of education. Then everything would be square.

Well, it took a long time, but Alistair got the form. He e-mailed me to let me know everything was gonna be ok, he was sending the form out to me express mail, and I should have it the next day. Well, two weeks went by and I never got the form. I e-mailed him yesterday to ask about it, and he informed me that he only uses protected mail, which has to be signed for (and a record is kept). He told me the administrative assistant had signed for the form on March 8th, and to ask the office about it.

This morning I showed my co-teacher the letter, and asked her to ask the office if they knew anything about it. No one knew anything, and they swore up and down that no one had signed for anything addressed to me, or anything at all. They refused to look for the paper, and left me completely crestfallen. I am so beyond frustrated with the situation being handled this way; my co-teacher simply asked, "Can't you get another form?"

I almost lost it on her. NO, I CAN'T get another form. That's the whole point. This form was sent weeks ago from the US, and YOU LOST IT. Can't you just $&*@#^# FIND IT!?!??! They don't understand why I'm even upset, which is most bothersome....

Alistair promised to call my school later today to try to get to the bottom of the situation. Hopefully he can help me!!

A Sea of Green

I've just returned from Seoul from what was the fastest weekend yet.... it seemed to go by in about 6 hours.

A rainy Friday night 7:30, Eve, Caroline and I get two pizzas, fries and brownies and have an endless funny Youtube video party. Leave Eve's house at 10:20, straight to band practice, ears ringing until 1:30. Run home in the rain and try to sleep, lie awake, it's 3:30.
Wake up Saturday morning 7:15, head to the bus 8:30, get on the bus to Seoul with my pals, ride four hours, laughing, napping, playing intermittent drinking games.

Eve, Dallas, Sarah, me, Emma, Dan. Ready to go with mimosas in hand, 8:30.

 
Get to Seoul 1:20, find the subway.

Sarah and I, still able to navigate. 1:30

Find the Irish festival in Sindorim, find the rest of the group, find my two long lost friends, Erik and Youngil, drink two bottles of Makgoli, laugh a lot, not sure what's going on!

Eve, Tony, me and Erik, Sindorim, 2:30

  Everyone in green, hard to spot people I know. I can understand what the people around me are saying- am I crazy? A Korean U2 cover band! 4:00! Time to go to the boat!!!!

Eve, Erik, me, Youngil, so happy together. 4:11

4:20, McDonald's, on the huge cruise ship, standing outside watching the sunset as we pull away from the docks, so many foreigners, 6:30.

ah, the memories- top floor of the boat

tony's birthday, 8:30

Drink, eat, dance and make sense of it all, three hours, and we're back at the dock! Too many cigarettes! 10:00. Trucker mouth and peeing in public, 10:04. Somehow getting from the boat to "the club," in Hongdae, more dancing, drinking, and laughing, stumbling around with Youngil to bars he used to bartend at, standing in a gay bar where someone seriously yelled "Who let the fish in?" ugh, 11:15. Rambling on the phone to Rita, somehow finding kebabs and delicious potatoes on the street, heart to heart with Erik, finding our friends sitting in a restaurant, turning into zombies, midnight. Leave the restaurant, somehow lose the group, find accomodations up a huge hill, jjimjilbang, 12:30. Pay $9, change into pajamas and sleep on the floor.

Wake up lying next to a sleeping Korean man who has his arm around me. Remove his arm and drift back to sleep, 2:45. Wake up once again to that man's friends slapping him awake and dragging him out of the jjimjilbang, 3:20. Wake up ten more times until it's the final time, I'm alone, 8:30. Chug water, drag myself down to the saunas and hot tubs and sweat out the hangover, 9:30. Get dressed and go shopping, find Forever 21, go crazy, spend money, 12:45. Head back to the bus terminal, just miss the 1:20 bus, wait in the bus terminal for the 2:20, find Eve and Emma again!!!!

Four hour bus ride, yuck. Scramble home, unload and splash water on my face, 6:30. Grab a sandwich and it's back to band practice, 7:15. Ears ringing, I'm back home and climb into bed, lights out when my head hits the pillow, 11:30.

Today is Monday... and it's time to recover. More pictures (and video... ugh) to come, once I figure out how to make it through the day.

<3M

Band...

The sound quality isn't good, the look is even funnier.... but here's a room of hungover young bleeding hearts. You get the idea maybe. Taken at one of our early practices, this is "Wet Sweat Sweat" by the Gay Sexyz.

Spring has Sprung!

Nothing new to really report, save for the fact that I am feeling almost 100% better! Thanks so much to everyone for praying for me.

There's a lot going on in the next couple of weeks/months: my band has at least three shows, I'm taking part/performing in the Jinju production of The Vagina Monologues at the end of April, there are going away parties every weekend, a trip to Seoul for St. Patrick's Day, and much more. It's a busy time of year here- and the weather is starting to get really nice (finally!) I can't wait for the flowers to come, and to retire my winter coat. It should be any day now, really! Today is so beautiful that I feel guilty sitting here behind this desk. Lunch time will warrant a long walk in the sunshine!

My relationship with my new co-teacher, Kim, is really good lately, too. She and I are a solid team, and she is a big fan of giving out candy to students, which they of course love and respond to enthusiastically. She isn't very organized, and we are working out a few kinks here and there, but for the most part, I got lucky again with as far as partners go.

Six more months to go! I can't even believe it.
More super soon,
<3M

Pneumonia Update

Today was a long exhausting day, but I made it through. I did miraculously make it to school this morning, but by lunchtime, my fever had returned, and I had serious (noticeable) bodily tremors. Though I tried to fake it through lunch, my co-workers quickly noticed, as I was (literally dripping) sweating through my clothes, that I was not alright. Finally my new co-teacher asked me to tell her what was wrong- I hadn't eaten any lunch and she was worried. I told her and she made me leave immediately- to my great relief. Another co-worker, the grounds keeper, took me to the hospital, and though he speaks no English, was a great help in explaining my situation to the nurses and corralling me to the various rooms.

My doctor was a complete jackwad who refused to believe me when I said I thought I had pneumonia; he said "it's probably a cold or influenza." They did an influenza test and it was negative... I wanted to scream in that doctor's face!! But doing so would have required some effort, and I couldn't afford to spare any at the time. The end results are thus: all in all, I arrived with a fever of 104, maybe the highest I've ever had. I had very high blood pressure and lost 4kgs- which might not seem like a lot, but I was at the doctors less than a month ago, and my weight has been pretty steady since high school. After two chest x-rays, it was immediately determined that yes, I had pneumonia in both lungs, although worse in the left. I received a total of four injections: two emergency antibiotics, one for my pain, and a mild sedative. After that I lay in a hospital bed with an IV in my arm for about two and a half hours, both to hydrate me and bring my fever down. After the IV was finished, I felt the first relief in almost a week. I had more energy than I've had in days- which isn't saying much- just the short three minute walk home completely exhausted me. But, I was allowed to go home- even though they wanted to keep me overnight- with handfuls of pills to take three times a day. I was told to come back in the middle of next week for a checkup.

Now I'm home, and I was able to eat a whole bowl of soup, unpack a little, and even start laundry. What little remained of my energy is now almost completely drained, but the fact that I can even eat is wonderful to me. Thank you for your thoughts and prayers... I hope to be feeling better by Sunday night!!


More soon,
<3M

Where to Begin.....

So much has happened during the past two weeks I don't even know where to begin.

1. Ian's visit- Ian visited me here in Jinju for five days, and it was truly lovely to see him. We did all sorts of things around the city, like rock climbing, some ultimate frisbee, hiking, drinking and dancing, tons of eating, and I even took him to the jjimjilbang (he did very well, haha). (Pictures to come.... maybe)

2. Thailand- Immediately after Ian visited (we flew out together) I went to Thailand with Juheon. Everything about that place is incredible- the people are lovely, the food is beyond compare (even the "crappy" food they sell on the street!), the weather is perfect. Most of my time there was spent on a Jurassic Park-esque hippy outpost island called Koh Chang. It's 20% immaculate beach, 80% undisturbed scary jungle (complete with monkeys and elephants!). Highlights included riding and swimming in a lake with an elephant, renting scooters and driving around the island, an all day snorkeling trip to four islands of paradise, touching a King Cobra! at a poisonous snake farm, getting an amazing eight dollar massage!, going to the best aquarium in the world, eating the freshest fruit for breakfast everyday, etc.
There were some stressful times, mostly involving travel/decisions/planning. I lost my camera my second day there! (I think Juheon will give me his pictures, and I bought a disposable camera that hopefully can be transferred to digital format.... pictures to come...maybe!) I got completely covered in mosquito bites and simultaneously horribly sunburned even though I applied SPF 50 religiously- terribly uncomfortable, haha. It became immensely difficult to communicate with Juheon- whose English I had greatly overestimated- and tensions arose there over plans, etc.

3. Pneumonia- I also had a faulty snorkel during the all day trip, and ended up breathing in a lot of sea water. Sometime the next night, in Bangkok, I began feeling tremendously ill- the chills, fever/sweats, incredible chest pains, delirium, nausea, and a bloody cough. I knew then that I probably had pneumonia, and I still had two full days left in Thailand. Though I really didn't want to leave, I realized I had to try to get to a doctor immediately. In a feverish delirium, I tried for hours to switch my plane ticket to come home earlier, but everything was booked solid and I would have ended up having to pay about $900 to get home! (Outrageously enough, I was so miserable that I considered it.) I told Juheon to leave me at the airport, as he wanted to stay and I was too sick to be much fun. When I didn't get a ticket, I was pretty upset, but in the end, I landed on two nights in a comfortable hotel by the airport, sleeping as much as possible. I had almost no energy but managed to get out a little bit and see a very small part of the city. Though we had separate flights, I actually ran into Juheon at the airport on my way out, and once in Korea we took the bus home together. When I arrived back in Jinju yesterday, I tried to go to the doctor's office, but as it was a national holiday, everything was closed. I slept for almost 17 hours and woke up this morning confused about where and when I was. Though I feel like garbage, and haven't really eaten anything since Friday morning, I somehow managed to get it together enough to go to school today, the first day of the new semester (ie, mandatory that I be here). My suitcase is still sitting where I dropped it after walking in the door yesterday afternoon. I plan on going to the docs this afternoon, where I will hopefully be given a super-antibiotic shot and a week's worth of pills.

4. New School Year/Teachers- Ellen is gone, together with three others and the Principal. This morning I got to meet my new co-teacher, Kim, who seems really nice but generally clueless. I can't judge- this is her first day on the job, afterall- but she has been teaching for almost 20 years and has absolutely no idea about anything regarding our teaching schedule, planning together, etc. I asked her, "Will we be teaching today?" to which she replied, "I haven't any idea!" and went back to typing away on the computer. Her English also kind of sucks when compared to Ellen's... it could be difficult to communicate with her in the future. My new Principal is the exact opposite of the old terrifying one- he is jovial, always smiling, and friendly! He even said hello to me and shook my hand. It's a strange atmosphere today, where a third of the teachers are brand new and I'm too sick to really pay attention. Hopefully this afternoon I can get myself fixed up and unpack!!!

More soon,
<3M